Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte has been transformed during the last decade from being a perennial underachiever to being one of the leading estates in the Graves region.

For many years it was owned by the Bordeaux négociant Eschenauer – in 1990 it was bought by former Olympic skiing champion, Daniel Cathiard. He cut down on the amount of chemicals and herbicides used in the vineyards, and fully modernised the winemaking facilities. The proportion of new oak barrels used in the maturation process was increased and a trio of eminent oenologists (including the ubiquitous Michel Rolland) were hired as consultants.

The 55 hectares of vineyards are located on a gravel ridge to the east of Château Haut-Bailly.

Blend – 90 % Sauvignon blanc, 5 % Sauvignon gris, 5 % Semillon

Winemaking – grapes are hand-picked into small crates and pressed in an oxygen-free environment (to preserve the aromatic potential of the berries) and fermentation takes place in French oak barrels (50% new oak) after a cold settling of the juices.

Ageing – 12 months on the lees with bâtonnagein barrels (50% new and 50% used for one previous vintage) made at the Chateau onsite cooperage.

Vine age – 38 years

Straight from the first nose, this wine brings us toward an aromatic palette of white fruits and flowers: citrus fruits, white peaches, pears and acacia flowers. Then aeration reveals spicier aromas of star anise and eucalyptus.After a tense and vivid attack, the mouth of concentration and power appears very well-balanced with a beautiful smooth texture. This fresh and elegant wine offers after citrus fruits some white flesh fruits, sweet spices and very complex notes of flint stones and fireplace, characteristic of our gravel terroirs.

Wine Enthusiast – 98 points

In a line of great white wines from this estate, here is a superb vintage. It has all the richness of ripe fruit, but that has been channeled into structure, density as well as intense acidity and freshness. All the signs are this wine will age for a long, long time.

James Suckling – 97 points

Aromas of dried apples, pears and peaches with crushed stones. Fresh flowers, such as lilacs. Full-bodied with layers of fruit and a fresh, creamy palate that continues on for minutes. A refined, precise, and polished Smith.

Jeb Dunnuck – 96 points

One of my favorite whites from the region is the 2019 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, which is mostly Sauvignon Blanc blended with a splash of Sauvignon Gris and Semillon. Textbook notes of honeyed lemon, melon, caramelized grapefruit, and orange blossom give way to a medium to full-bodied, ripe, seamless white that brings solid richness as well as a lively, racy quality that keeps you coming back to the glass. Drink this beautiful white over the coming 15-20 years. Best After 2022

Decanter – 96 points

Subdued on the first nose but opens up to show the rich, citrus and rosemary-filled grown up glamour that Smith Haut Lafitte’s white does so well. Acidity feels lower than in vintages like 2017 but similar to last year, with an emphasis on slate texture that narrows and focuses the tension through the palate, and suggests this will age well. Tasted twice three weeks apart and gorgeous both times, perhaps a little more developed in terms of its nuances and depth the 2nd time around, giving plenty of confidence to what will happen over the rest of ageing. If you are planning to drink this soon I recommend a good few hours in a carafe first.

Wine Advocate – 94 points

The 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc has turned out very well in bottle, reflecting the estate’s volition to craft more structured, age-worthy whites. Offering up aromas of gooseberry, nectarine, mint and lemongrass mingled with hints of pastry cream, almond paste and smoke, it’s full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a textural attack that segues into a fleshy but promisingly tightly wound mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As usual, the blend features a small percentage of Sauvignon Gris, which brings more dry extract to the ensemble. Best after 2021.

Wine Spectator – 93 points

Compact but with solid range, as the salted butter, verbena and talc notes work well with lemon pith and curd, white peach and gooseberry flavors. Offers a talc hint that works underneath to extend the finish. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. Drink now.