Jean-Paul Hébrart took over the operations of Marc Hébrart Champagne in the Vallée de la Marne from his father Marc in 1997. This estate is not exactly new: Jean-Paul’s father has been producing champagne under the Marc Hébrart name since 1964 and has been a member of the Special Club since 1985. Hébrart farms 14 hectares of vines on 65 different sites in 6 villages: the 1er cru vineyards of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay, Val d’Or and Bisseuil and the grand crus villages of Aÿ as well as Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Each parcel is always vinified separately in glass lined stainless steel and ceramic tanks. He is slowly phasing out the ceramic as it is more difficult to control the temperature. Hébrart is also experimenting barrel fermentation and indigenous yeast fermentation for some of his older vine parcels.

Using these new techniques Jean-Paul has made an alternative Téte de Cuvee (2004 vintage dated) called Rive Gauche-Rive Droite, named for the sites on both sides of the Marne that comprise of the blend. These old vine parcels are fermented and aged in 205 liter four year old barrique (without battonage) before being bottled sur latté. Jean-Paul hand selects grapes, uses a Bucher press, and is experimenting with fermentation in petite cuvee. Hébrart doesn’t block malolactic fermentation and does all remuage by hand.

Peter Liem writes of Champagne Hébrart on Champgneguide.net: “Hébrart’s wines have a broad appeal: if you like to think about your wines, they’re intellectually engaging enough to satisfy you; on the other hand, if you’re just looking to drink, they’re simply delicious. The wines are full and generous without being weighty, complex and soil-driven without being demanding. Overall, the entire range is of consistently high quality, and represents excellent value for the money.”

The cuvée “mes Favorites” brings together the parcels for which Jean Paul HEBRART has a particular attachment to. They are all located in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Premier cru. These parcels are called Faubourg d’Enfer, Pruches, Cotes, Haut de Varille, Croix Blanche-Maladrie or Buisson Saint Loup, and all are planted with old vines. The vines are about 50 years old.

Blend – 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay

Villages – Old vines (50+ years old) from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru,

Malolatic fermentation – Yes

élevage – Stainless steel

Aging 48 months

It has a truly noble PN fragrance, leading to an utter masterpiece of weightless concentration, as huge and yet as penetrable as a cumulous cloud. Mareuil is clearly great but it’s also somewhat inscrutable; it has some of the malt of Aÿ, some mirabelle confiture, an almost gingery spice and top notes of chalk. This wine has great, gossamer opulence.

Tyson Report – 96 points

Behind the village of Mareuil, directly under the vineyards, a sheer chalk cliff stands as a dramatic and stark testimony to the profound terroir that forms the bedrock of what is the greatest premier cru of all. To drink Jean-Paul Hébrart’s new cuvée is an equally profound experience of the confronting minerality of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The ability of the deep roots of old vines to extract the chalk signature of the terroir of great sites is remarkable indeed, and Hébrart bores to the very core of the chalk of Mareuil. Old vines infuse sensational concentration, too, rippling and rumbling with layers of generous white peach, fig and layers of spice. Chalk brings dynamic freshness to this succulent generosity, holding pronounced persistence and impeccable line. It’s little wonder that these plots, Hébrart’s most representative of his village, are the closest to his heart. Mes Favorites, indeed. Mine too.“

Robert Parker Wine Advocate – 93 points

The NV Brut Premier Cru Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes is a new cuvée for Hébrart that’s well worth seeking out, derived from superior, south-facing sites in Mareuil-sur-Ay that also inform his Special Club bottling. The inaugural released, based on the 2014 vintage, is showing very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of apples, pears, tangerine, white flowers, spice and pastry cream. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and nicely structured, with good cut and dry extract, as well as all the charm that defines the house style.

The softly spoken and unassuming Marc Hébrart purchased his first vines at the age of 17 and took over the reins at his father’s small Mareuil-sur-Aÿ domaine in 1998. Members of the Special Club since 1985, the Hébrart family have long been serious growers, but Marc has taken the estate to new heights. He works the soils and employs synthetic products only at flowering to protect the crop. “I need to have a good crop so I have enough grapes to make choices in the cellar,” he explains. He uses only organic fertilizers and debuds to limit yields. And he’s trying to build up his stocks so he can offer older vintages for sale, thinking that their reserves constitute one of the important advantages of the grandes marques. The Hébrart style is supremely—even deceptively—charming, emphasizing pretty fruit tones and structured around succulent acids. Yet the wines reward contemplation, too, and age very well indeed. All the releases here come warmly recommended.

Vinous – 92 points

The NV Brut Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes is bright, punchy and precise, with terrific energy and plenty of cut. This is an especially chiseled style for a Pinot-based Champagne. Red berry, mint and wild flowers add beguiling nuance. The dosage feels a bit high, but there is plenty to discover for readers who can spend a little time. Mes Favorites is a blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, both from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, 60% 2014, 20% 2013 and 20% 2012. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter