Jean-Paul Hébrart took over the operations of Marc Hébrart Champagne in the Vallée de la Marne from his father Marc in 1997. This estate is not exactly new: Jean-Paul’s father has been producing champagne under the Marc Hébrart name since 1964 and has been a member of the Special Club since 1985. Hébrart farms 14 hectares of vines on 65 different sites in 6 villages: the 1er cru vineyards of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay, Val d’Or and Bisseuil and the grand crus villages of Aÿ as well as Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Each parcel is always vinified separately in glass lined stainless steel and ceramic tanks. He is slowly phasing out the ceramic as it is more difficult to control the temperature. Hébrart is also experimenting barrel fermentation and indigenous yeast fermentation for some of his older vine parcels.

Using these new techniques Jean-Paul has made an alternative Téte de Cuvee (2004 vintage dated) called Rive Gauche-Rive Droite, named for the sites on both sides of the Marne that comprise of the blend. These old vine parcels are fermented and aged in 205 liter four year old barrique (without battonage) before being bottled sur latté. Jean-Paul hand selects grapes, uses a Bucher press, and is experimenting with fermentation in petite cuvee. Hébrart doesn’t block malolactic fermentation and does all remuage by hand.

Peter Liem writes of Champagne Hébrart on Champgneguide.net: “Hébrart’s wines have a broad appeal: if you like to think about your wines, they’re intellectually engaging enough to satisfy you; on the other hand, if you’re just looking to drink, they’re simply delicious. The wines are full and generous without being weighty, complex and soil-driven without being demanding. Overall, the entire range is of consistently high quality, and represents excellent value for the money.”

The “Special Club” now brings together some thirty passionate winemakers who present an exceptional wine in their “Special Club” prestige vintage, made only in great years. This cuvée is also a plot selection of old vines from the best first and great growths of the Champagne region.

Blend – 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay

Villages – Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru, Louvois Grand Cru; Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes (Faubourg D’enfer, Croix Blanche, Pruche, Haut de Varille), Louvois Grand Cru (Le Mont, Les Hauts Berceaux); Chardonnay from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes (Beauregard, Ramonette, Buisson Saint Loup, Clef)

Malolatic fermentation – Yes

élevage – Stainless steel

Aging 36+ months

A very expressive nose with an explosion of aromas, cream, pastry, white flowers (lilac, lily of the valley), acidulous candy, fresh fruit such as peach, apricot. On the palate it is well balanced, rich, full of finesse and very fresh. Opulent aromas of white fruit, cream, butter and candy lead to a complex, very long finish with notes of citrus and minerality. A remarkable and elegant champagne perfect as an aperitif or to accompany smoked salmon.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate – 94 points (2015 Vintage)

Disgorged in July 2019, Hébrart’s 2015 Brut Premier Cru Special Club is showing as well as I predicted, wafting from the glass with scents of white peach, apple blossom, iris, papaya and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, charming and gourmand, it’s elegantly fleshy, with succulent acids, an ample core of fruit, a delicate pinpoint mousse and a mouthwateringly saline finish.