The Niepoort family, originally from the Netherlands, has been creating Port Wines since 1842 and established themselves as one of the most respectable Port Houses.

Dirk Niepoort, fifth generation, runs the firm with a dedication and enthusiasm that has made him one of the most popular figures in the wine trade, and quickly became a trailblazer of table wines in Portugal with his projects focused on Terroir, elegance and the relentless pursuit of freshness. Dirk helped transform the Douro region and the way the world thinks about wine, with wines transcending the heat and displaying astounding craft and elegance.

His vision has striven to improve the company on all aspects: the vineyards were upgraded in sustainability (notably most are farmed organically, without any pesticides and herbicides) and the winery completely revamped. As for the grape crushing, Dirk is a passionate advocate of the traditional method of ‘treading’ (by foot) to extract maximum colour and flavour. These efforts resulted in magnificent examples from recent years.

Dirk Niepoort deserves the accolades he receives for his hard work, dedication and wonderful craft which propelled him to be one of the most reverred in Portugal and a world wine legend, elevating not only Port but Portugal’s dry wines.

The Vertente is produced from vineyards which are more than 35 years old, growing in the Quinta de Nápoles, and from old vines planted on the slopes of the Pinhão River where Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela and Rufete are the predominant varieties. The old vines contribute to the wine’s elegance, while the younger fruit lend it a youthful freshness. In this excellent 2015 red, concentration, fruit, complexity and elegance create a unique harmony. In line with the Niepoort style, the Vertente is finer, more elegant and more linear with every vintage.

The 2020 growing year was very heterogeneous. A rainy winter was followed by a quite moderate spring, providing favourable conditions for the vines’ growth. On the other hand, the month of June was relatively cool and slowed down the growth cycle. July brought very high temperatures (the hottest since 1931), with three heat waves which reduced the yields somewhat. Harvesting began in the first weeks of August in the hottest areas and concluded in the higher-lying slopes at the end of September. After a meticulous bunch selection in the vineyards, the grapes were sorted a second time in the cellar. The Vertente 2020 was fermented in conical stainless steel tanks before being left to mature for 22 months in french oak barrels.

Soil type – Schist

Grape – Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and others

Age – 50 to 80 years

Residual Sugar – 0.6 g/L

Alcohol – 13.0 %

The wine’s colour is radiant and of medium concentration. The essence of the Douro is captured in each bottle of the Vertente – it encompasses the various grape varieties growing on the Douro Valley’s terraced slopes of different altitudes and exposures. On the nose, aromas of fruits of the forest such as blackberry and blackcurrant mingle with hints of graphite, spices and balsamic notes. Structured and elegant, the palate finishes long, with the flavours persisting long after the last sip.

White meats (turkey, chicken), grilled dishes. Oily fish (salmon, sea bass). Vegetarian options: pasta and quiches.

Wine Advocate – 92 points

The 2021 Vertente is a regional expression of Douro, still a blend of grapes and vineyards, produced with the same logic as Batuta from different parts of the Douro with shorter macerations, some with stems, some destemmed and matured in barrique for 22 months. It’s spicy, nutty and earthy, with moderate ripeness, a mixture of berries and herbs and some of the rusticity from Redoma. It has a medium to full-bodied palate, slightly dusty tannins and moderate ripeness and alcohol (12%). They produced some 50,000 bottles. It was bottled in July 2023.

Where to start? I’ve known Dirk Niepoort for over 25 years, and I’ve followed his wines over the years. He doesn’t stop. He has grown his company like crazy. The still wines are on a new level since 2018 (they are always evolving, and they mention 2013 and 2021 as other years of change) with the arrival of winemaker Luis Pedro Cândido da Silva and the next generation of the Niepoort family, especially their son, Daniel, who joined the team in 2020. They not only produce wine in Douro but, nowadays, in most regions in Portugal—Dão, Alentejo, Vinho Verde, Bairrada…

The style is elegant, but they want the wines to age in bottle, so for them it’s all about balance. Some vineyards and wines have been certified organic since 2008. All of the vineyards they own are certified organic, but some of the grapes they buy are not. Daniel Niepoort, who’s a lot more focused on the vineyards now, told me organic is very important for him but that growers are also important and they want to keep the relationship with the growers and be a role model for them to show them that organic is possible, convincing them by being an example.

In 2022, they only got 202 liters of rain (a little less than in 2003!), but the vines adapted to the low water and yields were better than expected. They got some rain during harvest and some fungus. It was one of the most dramatic vintages in viticulture, and some plants died. But 2022 was great for Port. As for 2021, it was a great year for dry wines (but not great for Port), and there was enough water reserve in the soils. They consider it a perfect agricultural year with good yields; it has a mild spring and summer, so a longer cycle and perfect ripening of the grapes. It could be a little like 2018, 2008 and 2001—cooler years with higher acidity. 2020 was warm and dry, so the grapes were healthier. But it was the COVID-19 vintage, and that created some problems in the vineyards; everything was weird that year. As for 2023, even if still too early, the year was also great in Douro, for Luis Pedro the finest he’s seen there.

 James Suckling – 92 points (2017)

Unique aromas of blackberries, ash and dried flowers with some light mahogany. Full-bodied and tight with layers of fruit and firm, lightly chewy tannins. Full of life. Drink now or hold.