Bolgheri is the only Tuscan Appellation located on the coastline, and home of the ‘Super-Tuscans’. Its Terroir is perfectly suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (unlike most of Tuscany, planting Sangiovese). The Bolgheri DOC appellation was founded in 1994 and its wines have gained famed and recognition ever since.

Sensing the incredible potential of this region, Ornellaia was founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori. The property is adjacent to Tenuta San Guido, producer of Sassicaia, which is considered the original “Super Tuscan”. Robert Mondavi took a minority interest in the estate in November 1999, and were full owners by 2002, while initiating a partnership with the Frescobaldi family. In April 2005, Frescobaldi bought the remaining half of the shares of Ornellaia, coming to own the whole estate. Axel Heinz is the current winemaker with renowned Bordeaux Consultant Oenologist Michel Rolland, involved with the estate since its beginning.

Gazing towards the Mediterranean and deeply rooted in the identity of Ornellaia, Poggio alle Gazze reveals a refreshing spirit that is delicate like the breeze, while also remaining sumptuous and self-assured.

BLEND – 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 37% Vermentino, 6% Viognier, 2% Verdicchio, 2% Semillon

VINIFICATION AND AGEING
The clusters were hand-picked into small 15 kg boxes in the early morning hours and immediately chilled on arrival at the cellar to fully preserve their aromatic compounds. After a meticulous selection, the whole clusters were given a very slow, gradual pressing, while great care was exercised to prevent oxidation of the fruit. After static decantation for 12 hours, the different lots of must were put into barriques (25% new and 25% used), in steel tanks and in concrete vats. Fermentation temperatures did not exceed 22°C, and the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation. The wine matured on the fine lees for 6 months, with regular bâtonnage throughout the period, followed by the assemblage of the final blend. After a light fining, it rested an additional 12 months in the bottle before release.

The 2022 vintage in Bolgheri was distinguished by a typical winter with temperatures nearing the seasonal average, followed by a start of spring that was equally cool and dry. These conditions caused the vines to bud later than usual. From May onwards, a lengthy dry spell – lasting for about 75 days – persisted in the area, seriously challenging plant growth. The vines suffered from notable water stress during the growth, flowering and veraison periods, which resulted in a low-yield vintage.
Fortunately, after these complications, the rainfall caused by classic summer storms freed up the energies, reactivating the physiology of the vines that could resume the ripening of the grapes. The rainfall cleared up during a month of September that proved perfect for the accumulation of sugar, aromas and tannins, mostly due to the
cool night-time temperatures.
The harvest took place in superb conditions that enabled us to choose the perfect date for each vineyard and varietal. The white grape harvest started with Sauvignon Blanc on 9 August.

Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia 2022 displays an intense straw yellow colour. The early harvesting allows all the citrus and exotic fruit flavours to shine through ensued by minty notes. The aromatic freshness is confirmed on the palate with exceptional balance between length and acidity.

James Suckling – 93 points

Lots of sliced grapefruit with lemon rind and aniseed. Medium body. Vivid. Shows lovely brightness. Sauvignon blanc, viognier and vermentino. Drink now.

Wine Advocate – 91 points

Made mostly with 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 37% Vermentino, 6% Viognier, 2% Verdicchio and 2% Semillon, the 2022 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia is fragrant and fresh with aromas of lemongrass, sweet sage, honey and green apple that hover high in the glass. Pretty mineral notes of flint and crushed stone round it off. This is a tart, easy-drinking white wine that would pair with the delicious fresh seafood catch of the day found along the Tuscan coast. The wine is partially aged in new and neutral oak and cement.

Here’s a bit of news I am especially happy to report: between the sister estates Ornellaia and Masseto, bottle weight has been reduced by 82 tons in two years. The goal is to reduce an additional 12 tons before next year. For example, the bottle for the 2021 Masseto reviewed here was reduced by 150 grams to its current weight of 600 grams. This is a theme I have been following carefully (https://www.robertparker.com/wines/u8L84HES4Nid48LDw), because if a brand as important as Masseto takes a leadership stand on environmentally unfriendly glass bottles, other estates will surely follow.

This is a time of enormous change for Ornellaia and Masseto. Estate Director Axel Heinz left his position in March 2023 after nearly two decades in Bolgheri. The German-born, Bordeaux-trained winemaker is currently employed at Château Lascombes in Margaux. Axel joined the Tuscan estate in 2005 and oversaw the development of Ornellaia and Masseto as distinct brands, each with their own dedicated winery today. Lamberto Frescobaldi is president of the group today. Former Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes, the visionary who brought Masseto to La Place de Bordeaux, announced his retirement in 2023.

Starting January 1, 2024, a new team was put into place. Marco Balsimelli is charged with production (returning home to Italy from Bordeaux, where he spent 17 years with Laboratoire Oenologique Boissenot) and Giuliano Tarchi is vineyard manager (for both Ornellaia and Masseto). Gaia Cinnirella is winemaker for Masseto, and the Ornellaia winemaker is Denise Cosentino (she replaces outgoing Olga Fusari).

The Ornellaia Bianco became a Bolgheri Bianco DOC wine starting in the 2021 vintage. I have previously reviewed that vintage, and you will find my note published in our database.

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points (2021)

An elegant, complex nose offers lime, citrus blossom and gooseberry, then mixed dried herbs and an almost imperceptible but essential umami undertone of Parmesan rind. The balance between savory and citrus continues on the palate, where a mineral backbone and substantive acidity provide structure within a rich, satiny texture.