The Niepoort family, originally from the Netherlands, has been creating Port Wines since 1842 and established themselves as one of the most respectable Port Houses.

Dirk Niepoort, fifth generation, runs the firm with a dedication and enthusiasm that has made him one of the most popular figures in the wine trade, and quickly became a trailblazer of table wines in Portugal with his projects focused on Terroir, elegance and the relentless pursuit of freshness. Dirk helped transform the Douro region and the way the world thinks about wine, with wines transcending the heat and displaying astounding craft and elegance.

His vision has striven to improve the company on all aspects: the vineyards were upgraded in sustainability (notably most are farmed organically, without any pesticides and herbicides) and the winery completely revamped. As for the grape crushing, Dirk is a passionate advocate of the traditional method of ‘treading’ (by foot) to extract maximum colour and flavour. These efforts resulted in magnificent examples from recent years.

Dirk Niepoort deserves the accolades he receives for his hard work, dedication and wonderful craft which propelled him to be one of the most reverred in Portugal and a world wine legend, elevating not only Port but Portugal’s dry wines.

The grapes used for the Redoma Branco originate from old vines growing on the right bank of the Douro River, at an altitude of between 400 and 600 metres. Here, the predominant grape varieties are Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Viosinho, Donzelinho and Gouveio. The mica schist soils in which these vines thrive lend the resulting wines plenty of minerality, elegance and vibrant freshness.

For Niepoort, 2023 was an excellent year for the production of whites, with medium high concentration and acidity, as well as a high yield. At Quinta de Nápoles, harvesting began on 2 August with the earlier-maturing grape varieties. On 14 August we began harvesting our white grapes. The grapes stem from old vines growing on the right bank of the Douro River, at an altitude of 400 to 600 metres above sea level. These vines predominantly grow in mica-schist soils, which, in combination with the complexity of the various grape varieties typical of the Douro region, create delicate wines full of freshness and minerality. After being meticulously sorted on our sorting table, the fruit was gently pressed and left to settle for about 24 hours. Alcoholic fermentation took place spontaneously, in 228L and 500L French oak barrels, where the wine also aged for 8 months.

Soil type – Schist

Grape – Rabigato, Códega de Larinho, Viosinho, Donzelinho, Arinto and others

Age – 65 to 85 years

Residual Sugar – 0.6 g/L

Alcohol – 12.3 %

Aromas of fresh herbs, honeysuckle, citrus, and stone fruit greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is delicate with a spicy finish and lingering acidity.

Wine Advocate Robert Parker – 93 points (2022)

The 2022 Redoma Branco, like the Redoma Reserva, comes from Murça, an area of mica and schist that sits at 350 to 400 meters in altitude and is warm during the day and cool at night, so it retains good acidity. The vineyards are 30 to 60 years old and planted with a field blend of Rabigato, Códega de Larinho, Viosinho and Arinto. The wine fermented and matured in barrel (228- and 500-liter). It has the roundness of the vintage, a moderate 12.5% alcohol and good balance and freshness. The oak is neatly integrated and adds nuance and complexity to the wine. It’s long, dry and tasty. 70,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2023.

Where to start? I’ve known Dirk Niepoort for over 25 years, and I’ve followed his wines over the years. He doesn’t stop. He has grown his company like crazy. The still wines are on a new level since 2018 (they are always evolving, and they mention 2013 and 2021 as other years of change) with the arrival of winemaker Luis Pedro Cândido da Silva and the next generation of the Niepoort family, especially their son, Daniel, who joined the team in 2020. They not only produce wine in Douro but, nowadays, in most regions in Portugal—Dão, Alentejo, Vinho Verde, Bairrada…

The style is elegant, but they want the wines to age in bottle, so for them it’s all about balance. Some vineyards and wines have been certified organic since 2008. All of the vineyards they own are certified organic, but some of the grapes they buy are not. Daniel Niepoort, who’s a lot more focused on the vineyards now, told me organic is very important for him but that growers are also important and they want to keep the relationship with the growers and be a role model for them to show them that organic is possible, convincing them by being an example.

In 2022, they only got 202 liters of rain (a little less than in 2003!), but the vines adapted to the low water and yields were better than expected. They got some rain during harvest and some fungus. It was one of the most dramatic vintages in viticulture, and some plants died. But 2022 was great for Port. As for 2021, it was a great year for dry wines (but not great for Port), and there was enough water reserve in the soils. They consider it a perfect agricultural year with good yields; it has a mild spring and summer, so a longer cycle and perfect ripening of the grapes. It could be a little like 2018, 2008 and 2001—cooler years with higher acidity. 2020 was warm and dry, so the grapes were healthier. But it was the COVID-19 vintage, and that created some problems in the vineyards; everything was weird that year. As for 2023, even if still too early, the year was also great in Douro, for Luis Pedro the finest he’s seen there.

James Suckling – 92 points (2021)

Crushed lemons, ripe guava, and spicy herbs like crushed rosemary and sage. Minerals, too. So crisp and focused with clean, fresh acidity and a steely character to it. Lemons, white flowers and herbs. Beautiful, solid center palate and crisp at the end. Drink or hold.